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CHRIS SHARMA: JUMBO LOVE
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NIXON: CHINA
PERFECTO: MALLORCA
EDITORIAL: KLAMATH TRIBES
EDITORIAL: TURKEY
My very first climbing trip was to Smith Rock in 1986, when it was the center of the climbing universe. I was awestricken by the climbing possibilities there. Now, with fond memories, I return to Smith with camera gear, and I'm as awestricken as ever. Here, Chris Lindner climbs on the Christian Brothers Formation, Smith Rock State Park, Oregon
Chris Sharma, Yangshuo, China
Conrad Anker, Barronette Peak, Yellowstone, NP
Cala Sa Nau, Mallorca
Sam Elias, La Puerta, Venezuela
Emily Harrington, Porta la Cruz, Venezuela
Ethan Pringle, Mallorca
Chris Sharma, Hueco Tanks, Texas
On September 11th, 2008, Chris Sharma climbed the magnificent "Jumbo Love" at Mt Clark California. At 5.15b, it's considered the hardest route in the world. It was my honor to be asked by Chris to shoot him on his project of three years.
At 280 feet long, Jumbo Love is one of the longest single pitches on the planet. It also happens to overhang more than 80'.
The first 70 feet of the route are relatively easy at 5.12+. Then the route kicks back and overhangs almost 45 degrees for the next 100 feet. The first crux sequence is an estimated V13 boulder problem coming after climbing the overhang for 40 feet.
After a hand jam rest in the middle of the roof, the second crux hits hard at the 80 foot mark out the roof. The sequence involves latching a seemingly endless series of hideous pinches and pockets.
Chris took multiple long falls from the upper crux, some close to 100 feet long. Here, Chris goes for more than 70 on one of his best attempts.
The last hard moves are at the lip of the roof on tiny crimps and dicey footholds. Once established above the roof, all that stands in the way of success is another 100 or so feet of slightly overhanging, runout 5.13d.
American Fork Canyon, Utah
Chris Lindner, Fraguel, Mallorca
Whit Magro, Hyalite Canyon, Montana
Katie Brown, Mill Creek Canyon, Utah
Tommy Caldwell, Tuolumne Meadows, California
The City of Rocks, Idaho
Serkan Ercan, Dalian, Turkey
Climbers dwarfed on the Outrage Wall, El Potrero Chico, Mexico
Chris Sharma, Hueco Tanks, Texas
Serkan Ercan, Dalian, Turkey
Ben Moon, Hueco Tanks, Texas
Conrad Anker, Hyalite Canyon, Montana
Nate Gold and Chris Sharma, Castle Hill, New Zealand
Herakleia, Turkey
Ethan Pringle, Cala Sa Nau, Mallorca
Chris Sharma, mid dyno, Diablo Wall, Mallorca
The infamous thread on Loskott & Two Smoking Barrels. The all-points-off dyno is 12 meters above the Mediterranean, Diablo Wall, Mallorca
Chris Lindner, sticking the dyno, Diablo Wall, Mallorca
Serkan Ercan, Dalian, Turkey
Conrad Anker, Hyalite Canyon, Montana
The late Michael Reardon, Joshua Tree, California
Beth Rodden, Mill Creek Canyon, Utah
Tommy Caldwell, Mill Creek Canyon, Utah
Chris Sharma, Red River Gorge, Kentucky
Chris Lindner, one-finger clip, Smith Rock, Oregon
Jason Kehl, Hueco Tanks, Texas
The late Michael Reardon, ropeless on EBGB's, Joshua Tree, California
Castle Valley, Utah
Mats Pede, Mallorca
Justin Hawkins and friends, Mallorca
Lev Pinter prepared for impact, Mallorca
The beach camp at Cala Barques, Mallorca. During Autunm 2005, over a dozen climbers shared two bowls, a couple of spoons and a coffee mug for several weeks at this site. Nobody complained. The site has been known as "beach 4" (in homage to Yosemite's infamous Camp 4) since. The string surrounding the camp keeps roaming cows out. For more on Mallorca, check out the Perfecto: Mallorca gallery
Cynthia Leventhal ascends into a slot, Castle Hill Basin, New Zealand
Andrew Bisharat and Dan Mersky on El Gavilan, 5.13b, Los Ramotes, Nuevo Leon, Mexico
Los Ramotes, Nuevo Leon, Mexico
Two fallen comrades, Michael Reardon and John Bachar watch in mock-horror as two beginners epic their way up a route in Joshua Tree.
Rest in peace guys.
©2008 BOONE SPEED